Dermarolling 101: Dos and Don'ts

dermarolling dos and donts dermarolling dos and donts

A few weeks ago, I got sent this dermarolling kit by Swiss Clinic. I was very excited to try this as I did want to start with the smallest of needles so I asked for the 0.2mm.

However, after a quick search, I realised I couldn't do it if I was on antidepressants, which made me wait until I got off them, and then came the acne breakouts (not sure if those two were related, my bet is yes).

So anyway, I'm postponing a little until my face is all clear to start testing this out but I did so much research on dermarolling, so I wanted to start by introducing what will be my first skin roller and give you a little advice on what you should and shouldn't do when attempting this procedure and also what you can expect and what needle sizes to go for.

This duo is the Skin Roller and Collagen Serum by Swiss Clinic* but they also have this roller in 0.5mm needles and sell the items separately as well.

For starters, what is dermarolling?
Dermarolling is a process of creating tiny micro tears in your skin to help your products sink in deeper and, mostly, to trigger you skin renewal process and the creation of collagen.
So these little things have lots of micro-needles (the length will depend on your skin concerns and your goals) that will be rolled onto your skin ever so gently.
It can help with acne scars and other types of scars, wrinkles, pigmentation, stretchmarks and overall texture - as well as getting you one step closer to that healthy glow from within.

What needle size should I use?
0.2mm - no pain or bleeding, no numbing cream needed - helps skincare penetrate further and enhances glow
0.3-0.5mm - mild discomfort, minimal bleeding, numbing cream optional - helps with shallow scars, pigmentation and fine wrinkles
0.75mm-1mm - moderate pain and bleeding, numbing cream recommended but optional - helps with deep scars, pigmentation, deep wrinkles and stretchmarks
1mm-3mm - severe pain and excessive bleeding, numbing cream required - SHOULD ONLY BE PRACTICED BY TRAINED PROFESSIONALS
FOR EYE AREA, USE THE SMALLEST NEEDLES AVAILABLE AND BE EXTRA CAREFUL!

How often should I do it?
0.2mm - every other day or 3 in 3, depending on sensitivity
0.3-0.5mm - once a month for beginners, others may go up to twice a month
0.75mm-1mm - once every 4-6 weeks
1mm-3mm - once every 6-8 weeks - SHOULD ONLY BE PRACTICED BY TRAINED PROFESSIONALS
Only repeat procedure once skin has fully healed from previous session!!! Overdoing it may case damage to the skin and compromise its texture and healing permanently, having the opposite of the desired effects as it may stop collagen production too.

What are the side effects?
Afterwards your skin will feel very sensitive and it may be red and feel like it's been mildly burned (similar to sunburn). For 0.2 needles, the feeling should go away in 24h. For 0.5mm and upwards it may take 2-6 days for your skin to completely recover.


Dos

  • Start off slowly with shorter needles and work your way up
  • Disinfect before and after the procedure - dunk your roller's head in a glass of rubbing alcohol for a full hour (simply spraying it will not erase all the bacteria and hot water may damage your needles and roller)
  • Disinfect your face as well prior to the procedure with rubbing alcohol
  • Apply numbing cream if the needle is bigger than 0.5mm
  • Use your roller in a star pattern, five times in each direction - 5 times vertically, 5 times horizontally, 5 times diagonally each inclination; and make sure to always lift up your roller each time so the needle won't be insisting in the same "micro-hole" over and over again
  • Be careful with the products you apply afterwards - you should avoid products with strong and irritant active ingredients (avoid essential oils, acids, retinol or retinol-type ingredients, highly fragranced formulas and/or comedogenic ingredients)
  • Apply gentle and calming products for hyper sensitive skin types

Don'ts

  • Attempt dermarolling if you're on the following medication:
    • antidepressants
    • (ro)accutane / isotetrinoine
    • antibiotics or penicillin
    • drugs for high blood pressure
    • anticoagulants
    • any medication that may increase skin sensitivity
    • drugs that decrease healing
    • drugs that cause hyper or hypopigmentation
    • NSAID's
    • Tetracycline
  • Dermaroll if you've recently had a peeling or exfoliating treatment, if you've had laser treatment or if your skin is just feeling vulnerable and sensitive overall
  • Dermaroll over areas with the following characteristics or conditions:
    • Active Acne / Rosacea / Keratosis / Eczema / Psoriasis / Rashes / any other skin condition
    • Any type of contagious skin disease
    • Abnormal Skin Growth
    • Keloid scarring
    • Moles
    • Sunburn
    • Skin Cancer
    • Warts
    • Open Wounds
    • Any type of inflamation or bruised skin
    • Hemophillia
  • Apply too much pressure, slide your roller over your concerned areas (avoiding eye area unless that's your specific target) about five times in different directions as a star pattern, as explained above in the Do's section
  • Share your dermaroller - that is you personal tool and you should not share it with anyone as you'd not share a mascara, toothbrush and such
  • Apply makeup, sunscreen or tanning lotion for the next 24h
  • Be in direct sunlight for the next 24h
  • Exfoliate your skin at all until it completely heals (that includes anything with acids on them and exfoliating scrubs)

And I think that's pretty much it!
If you have any doubts about this process, leave them down below in the comment section please!
Oh and if I forgot about anything at all (hope not!), please also leave it in the comment section and I will update this article.

I will absolutely let you know once I start my process and I may even do a post on skincare for post-dermarolling days! Would that be of interest to you guys? Let me know!!

Overall I'm excited to start this with my Swiss Clinic Skin Roller as it's a smaller one and I hope to graduate to a 0.5 down the road. My aim would be more glow (YES!), but to also have my tiny acne scars reduced and less prominent! That would be heaven! They're not very noticeable, but they just look like blackheads all over so they just annoy me! AND, following this acne breakout which I think is nearing its end, I'd also love for the pigmentation to go away more quickly than usual. Because it's BAD!
I'll, of course, be showing you photos of the before and after too!

Let me know your thoughts, I know it sounds rather scary!! But would you be willing to try dermarolling?

* PR Sample